10,000 cyclists

On the 28th, Bryce took us to Whanganui Bay for some climbing. On the way out there we inadvertently participated in a bike race. We got stuck behind packs of bikers on our drive down. Bryce got a little impatient because they were taking up both lanes of the two lane highway. He got on the horn and piled through them. I was following in my rental. We were no more than a foot away from the cyclists. They waved at us as we buzzed through them.
We got to Whanganui Bay and went off road. Marc suggested the best 4 by vehicle is a rental. We got to the car park and started the approach. It was an easy 25 minutes in then up to the tree line to the Plateau.
Marc led the first climb - Bunnies in the Sky - and Kate and I topped it. It was a 17 or around a 5.9. We then topped Gunga Din - a 5.10 crack. I was feeling pretty good and decided to try to lead this route without knowing its rating. (RED FLAG!) Bryce comes running up and tells me that's the hardest 23 (somewhere between 5.11a-d) in the Plateau. I tried it anyways and fell, twice. The first time I fell I was at the second bolt and was trying to find a good foot. I can't remember exactly what I did, but I lost my balance and off I went.
I can count on one hand how many times I've lead climbed. I've fallen exactly zero times on lead climbs, meaning I don't know what to do when I fall. So when I did fall, I must have had my leg on the wrong side of the rope and it flipped me. Marc (the guy belaying me) told me my head was less than an inch from the ground and narrowly missed slamming into a rock.
I was a little shaken, but I didn't see the fall from his perspective, so back I went. I clipped in to the second bolt safely and was on my way to the third. I had a good right hand grip and fairly good feet. I reached for the quickdraw and suddenly the feet weren't so good. Another fall with me ending up upside down. Luckily only my hip crashed into the wall. I didn't finish the route.
Marc is a pilot and pilots have all kinds of sayings. He told me my number wasn't up yet.
The next day I successfully led four climbs at Frogatt Edge. The last being Terror Incognito, a classic 25 meter 18 (5.10?). I probably won't be able to post pictures until I get back Hands down (according to Bryce) one of the top ten sports routes on the North Island.

You're eating maggots Michael

I'm safe in New Zealand. The plane ride and car pickup was painless, except I stayed in the airport for two hours before the rental company would come get me. It was a little after 6am when I cleared customs, and picking up the car before 8am would've cost an extra $75. Tony picked me up at 8:10 and I was on my way by 8:45.
Fortunately the car is an automatic. It was a little strange driving from the right side but I adjusted quickly. I've only almost caused two accidents and have driven on the wrong (right) side of the road only twice (only for a short period of time). Luckily most of my driving has been in the country side with very few cars. It doesn't seem like many kiwis lay on their horn like Americans do. I may be unwillingly testing this theory again soon.
My first day here, it rained in Auckland and most of my drive down to Wharepapa South. I checked in to the bunk house at Bryce';s and had the place all to myself. Two other American couples were there - Ron, Ginger, Marc, and Kate - and Ron's friend Daan. Since it was kind of raining around the area I decided to go to Waitomo to the glow worm caves. If I had to describe it in one word: cold.
I was tired and felt like I was on the verge of a cold. I made the twewnty minute drive there, squeezed in to an already wet wetsuit, and slapped a helmet with a head land lamp on. There were ten of us in the group. I was the first to jump in to the water. After that I wasn't so sure I could handle it.
We walked to the entrance of the cave, went in , and regrouped. They sent the American in first. I turned on the headlamp and went in. Stalactites were hanging down from the ceiling and the ankle deep water ws rushing ahead of me. Even though I could see my own breath, five minutes in to the trip I forgot about how cold it was. I rushed through the labrynth to the jump in point, turned around, stuck my butt through the inner tube and jumped in. We floated then walked to another stopping point and turned off the headlamps. The glow worms were twinkling like stars. Here we learned some facts about the glow worms: they are actually maggots and the glow is phosphorescent shit that NASA is studying.
We floated some more in the dark, jumped down about a one meter drop into water (FUN!) and looked up to see a skylight over sixty meters above us. We were kinda deep inside this cave. We floated along some more in total darkness, at one point the water level was about nine meters deep. By the end I had forgotten about the cold, or was so numb it didn't matter. We got out of the cave and floated along the river back to the starting point.
I took a hot shower, ate some soup, and talked to some of the people on the trip. I drove back to Bryce's and crashed shortly afterwards. It was a long first day.

Fuck Tha' Police

Fuck them! I hate fucking pigs. HATE THEM!
Josh and I put our heads together and figured out something was not right in the house. On Monday morning the kitchen window was wide open, and the front door slightly ajar. Tonight I found a few things missing; forty dollars, four credit cards, and some other little things. I know, my fault for leaving these things out.
I was getting into bed when I realized the credit cards were missing so I called the credit card companies to have them cancel the cards. The fucking lowlife assholes who stole them went to a gas station and tried to withdraw money from an ATM. I don't even know my pin for those cards! They didn't tell me and I forgot to ask how much was charged to the one card.
After consulting with the credit card people I decided to call the mother fucking pigs and file a report. The went to Haight instead of Hayes. Two by two the pigs came marching, four total. The last two were total assholes. Officer Tarbox (are you kidding me?) basically was wondering what I was expecting because there's nothing they could do about it.
Drop the gun and the badge bitch and I will put you on the floor before you can say Tarbox. I couldn't fucking believe this guy. Did he think I was fucking bored at four in the morning and wanted some company? These fucking no talent, wanna be important, power tripping, IQ of a Tarbox, tea baggers come in to my house wake up my house mate (after I told them he's sleeping in that room) and repeat to me at least twice, "I don't know what you want us to do, cause there's nothing we can do." To which I reply "Yeah I know [Asshole] you've already said that."
I was expecting a little bit more from San Francisco's finest. Maybe they should take those broom sticks out of their tarbox before they hurt themselves.

Canada, huh? Almost made it.

We met we talked. Some cried some laughed. I shrugged my shoulders. I can't think about this right now. The sale of the company may become official as soon as tomorrow. We found out what our severance/bonus package willl be from the sale. Like most bonuses from this company, it is generous, and they are providing us with medical insurance for all of 2005. There are a few little snags - I will be leaving for New Zealand Wednesday, the paper work to be signed isn't available until Monday and needs to be signed by the 13th. My job is still in limbo, meaning I may not have one when I come back.
O Canada!
Vancouver or Toronto?

Ch ch ch ch changes...

We will finally find out some information about the sale of Fantasy Records, which The Saul Zaentz Film Center is a part. People in the company have been spreading rumors throughout the building for months about the sale to Concord Records. I haven't really much cared. Sure it would be horrible to come back from my trip to find myself without a job (F*** you sega sports for not recognizing talent), but I'm going on a much needed trip and don't want to have to worry about these things. Speaking of which my buddy Matt is going to meet me for a week in the south island. It's been at least six(?) months since he said F*** you to the man, and for that (AC/DC please) we salute you!
I usually have some sort of epiphany after going on extended trip, but in a strange sequence of events I have it now. Not having this job when I come back may be the best thing for me. It will force me to take the next step in my life. My brain craves for a challenge and I don't find it at my present job. I have some thoughts about how to remedy this. The obvious answers are there. Now I have to decide which path to follow.

Ten thousand two hundred twenty six days and counting

Tomorrow my target heart rate is supposed to drop by one beat per minute, and I will decisively be in my late twenties. I'm not bummed out about this at all. Or am I? As far as feeling old, I don't. Not unless I'm hanging out with certain (young) friends and tell them I was a senior in high school when Aladdin was released. They laugh and joke about me being old (thanks Liz) and...Damn. I just realized I was actually a sophomore at that time, which means I was younger than they are now.
My Yoda quote for the day is, "Look I so old to young eyes?" No, no I don't. Hell when I went to vote, the woman at the polling place couldn't believe I was eighteen. I was tired, and a bit unfriendly when I told her I'm twenty-...(If you know chinese astrological signs you can figure this out). I'm still surprised when I don't get carded at bars.
I don't look old and most of the time I don't feel old. I'm sure not feeling old has a lot to do with climbing. Contrary to one person's opinion (AW-J), I feel like I have a lot more in me. I feel better than I have since Aladdin came out.

Chalk Dust

Hi my name is Viet. I have a problem. I climb a lot. Sometimes three or four times a week, depending on how I'm feeling. If I'm happy I'll climb. If I'm sad, I'll climb. Any time is a good time really. I've gone from doing routes to the more concentrated pure form of bouldering. They're both really good. It's my escape from the real world. I climbed three days in a row this week. I think I should lay off the stuff for a few days.
Any who. I tied for fourth in my age group at the bouldering comp Saturday and got a trucker hat. Gotta let my hair breathe you know. Anyways I'm stoked about that, but I also finished a V5 on my fifth and final attempt. If I would have followed Neil's beta after my second try I would've been all alone in fourth place. Hmmm....
Someone please stop me from drinking beer during a comp. Seriously, just walk up and knock the beer out of my hand. My face once again turned this nice shade of red after only having ONE beer. I was nowhere near drunk, meaning I could've walked in a straight line backward and forward, recited the alphabet backwards, and climbed a V4. But, still I'm walking around the gym looking like I was out in the sun too long. I'm not drinking again...until Friday.

T minus 12

I'm feeling a little anxious, I think, due to my upcoming trip. Only twelve more days now. I bought new climbing shoes - Mad Rock's Mugens. So far they're not too bad, and were relatively inexpensive. I picked up my backpack from Marmot yesterday, I decided to go with the Bridger since it fit me like a glove. There are a few other things I need to pick up before I leave. I hate shopping! It freaks me out, really it does. I just want to get on the plane take an ambien and wake up in New Zealand.
On a happier note, Ironworks is doing another members competiton tomorrow. Yay! Free stuff.

The Incredibles

I went to see The Incredibles last night with Todd and Kelly. Anyone who hasn't seen this movie stop everyting and go see it! Now! I don't think I need to say how amazing the animation is. I was so into the movie and the visuals, I didn't notice my mouth hanging wide open. Luckily, I didn't drool. After remebering to close my mouth, I found myself sitting on my hands, leaning forward in my seat with every muscle in my body tense. It was like being a kid and watching the Transformers movie all over again.
Craig T. Nelson has the perfect voice for Mr. Incredible. Samuel L. Jackson as Frozone, had some choice scenes, like when he was trying to find his super suit. Although his power is a complete rip of Iceman, Paramount should study what Pixar did and do something similar with Iceman in the next X-Men movie. Wallace Shawn (Vizzini from the Pricess Bride) has a brief but memorable character and if you didn't like Edna (Brad Bird - director/writer) there's something wrong with you. Other characters of note: Bomb Voyage and Jack Jack.

AAAACHOOOOOOOO

Some people say 'bless you' when one sneezes. I say nothing. Do you say 'bless you' when someone coughs? It's not that I don't care, I just don't see the point. I guess it's polite to say 'bless you' when someone sneezes, but does that make me a jerk for not saying it? Do people feel better when someone affirms the fact they sneezed with a 'bless you?'
Maybe it's the whole Christian god thing that makes me not want to say 'bless you.' If anyone can come up with something else not so holy sounding let me know. I don't like gesundheit either. :-)

Bless you (argh. I still don't like it.)

Siri 10 months

P1010087
Originally uploaded by viet.

This is my favorite picture of Siri from her 10 month update. More pictures of Siri here.

Sunday Night Football

Does any one else hate the commentators on ESPN's Sunday Night Football? I hate them almost as much as I hate Bush. Yay, I get to listen to Peter Lorre, Joe Theismann, and Paul Maguire for three hours. I'm sorry. What? It's Mike Patrick, not Peter Lorre? Whatever. I'd rather listen to a dead guy than those three.
Are they watching the game at all, or just getting loaded up there in the press box? At least Madden can still be entertaining while knocking them back. Example. Some player for the Browns caught the ball and ran out of bounds and Theismann is wondering why the game clock stopped. Does any one else see a problem here? They showed a replay of one of the running backs trying to run up the gut and all three agree he was down. Both Josh and I are watching the same replay. There were probably ten to fifteen 200-300 pound men blocking the camera's view of the runner. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt on this one. Obviously ESPN provided them with those x-ray vision glasses.
This is probably not feasible, but I think it would be a great idea to watch a game with just sounds of the game. Just imagine if you could switch off the commentary and just listen to the crowd noise, the defense yelling at each other to shift coverage, Peyton Manning calling audibles, and people getting tackled. I say mic up all the players! Put those NFL films parabolic microphones to better use.

Three weeks from yesterday

I have a dilema right now. Do I buy a new backpack for my trip or not? At the moment I'm trying to decide between two Dana Design packs - the Bridger and the Glacier. I think the only difference between the two is volume. Do I want/need that much space? The Bridger is also under 5lbs at the XS/S size and the Glacier is probably going to be around 5 and 1/2lbs. Decisions, decisions.
I've decided where one of my first stops in the south island of New Zealand will be. Whale watching and swimming with dolphins (looks like I'm going to have to learn how to swim better) in Kaikoura, and a nice relaxing stay at the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve.
Damn it! For a few minutes there I forgot Bush is still president. I'm still pissed!

Aotearoa - Land of the Long White Cloud

I fly to New Zealand the 24th - the day before Thanksgiving. I've rented my wheels, know where I'm sleeping the first night, and have my first few adventures planned. First off, once I fly into Auckland - the most populated city in New Zealand - I'm getting the hell out of there as soon as possible. I'm sure Auckland is a charming city, but part of the point of this trip is to not be in a metropolitan area. I'll then drive about three hours south to Bryce's where I'll stay for a few nights. There are two climbing spots right around there - Froggatt Edge and the Waitomo boulders. The other thing I'm planning on doing is Ruakuri Cave, where I'll lay on an inner tube for three hours and stare at the glow worms. The lights man, the lights.